The world of high fashion is no stranger to controversy, but a recent incident involving luxury brand Dior has once again ignited a crucial conversation about cultural appropriation and the lack of credit given to traditional artisans. This isn’t an isolated event; it follows closely on the heels of Prada’s widely criticized appropriation of Kolhapuri chappals, highlighting a persistent issue within the industry.
At the heart of the latest debate is a stunning gold and ivory overcoat, part of Christian Dior’s womenswear and menswear collection, debuted by creative director Jonathan Anderson on June 27, 2025. This particular piece, featuring an intricate houndstooth design, immediately caught the eye of fashion enthusiasts and critics alike. What makes this coat truly special, and ironically, the source of contention, is the exquisite mukaish embroidery adorning it.
Fashion commentator Hanan Besnovic was quick to point out the meticulous craftsmanship involved: the coat reportedly took 34 days to create, with 12 embroiderers dedicating their skill to its intricate patterns. The key detail here is that mukaish is not just any embroidery; it is a traditional Indian hand embroidery technique, deeply rooted in Lucknow, India.
The Unsung Art of Mukaish
For those unfamiliar, mukaish is a delicate art form where fine metal strands are twisted and worked into fabric to create shimmering patterns. There are two distinct styles within this technique: kamdani and mukaish, also sometimes referred to as ‘fardi ka kaam’. It’s a craft that requires immense skill and patience.
Tragically, mukaish is a dying art. Very few artisans still practice it, and its use is often confined to highlighting other traditional Indian embroideries, such as chikankari. While chikankari has successfully gained global recognition and found its way into mainstream fashion, mukaish has largely remained a hidden gem, cherished primarily within its region of origin.
The Problem of Uncredited Inspiration
This makes Dior’s use of mukaish on a prestigious Paris runway all the more significant. The issue, however, is the glaring omission of any mention of its Indian genesis. The overcoat, valued at a staggering $200,000, showcases a rich cultural heritage, yet the creators of that heritage, the Indian artisans, remain unacknowledged.
This incident mirrors the backlash Prada faced when they incorporated Kolhapuri chappals into their collection without initially crediting their Indian inspiration. In both cases, the high-fashion brands only acknowledged the origins of these traditional crafts after public outcry and extensive criticism.
The repeated occurrence of such incidents raises serious questions about ethical sourcing, cultural appreciation versus appropriation, and the responsibility of global brands to respect and credit the traditional knowledge and craftsmanship from which they draw inspiration. It’s a reminder that true luxury should encompass not just the beauty of the product, but also the integrity of its creation and the recognition of its roots.
As consumers, we have a role to play in holding these brands accountable and advocating for greater transparency and respect for the world’s diverse artisanal traditions. The beauty of fashion lies not just in its innovation, but also in its ability to tell stories – and those stories must always include the original voices and hands that shaped them.
